“The Green Fairy” was thought to be illegal in the UK and was indeed banned across most of Europe and North America. George Rowley was most instrumental in its resurrection but before I tell his story, what is absinthe’s history and why was it banned in the first place?

Words: Simon Difford

From left: Dr Ordinaire, Val-De-Travers, Toulouse Lautrec

Birth of Absinthe

The origins of absinthe are as intriguing as the spirit itself. Even the name is open to debate, but it is widely believed to come from the Greek word apsinthion, meaning either “wormwood” or “undrinkable”  likely a reference to the herb’s intensely bitter taste.

The history of wormwood stretches back thousands of years. Its medicinal use is mentioned in the Ebers Papyrus of ancient Egypt, dating to around 1550 BC. Later, the ancient Greeks also used wormwood extracts and wines infused with wormwood as remedies. There is even evidence that Hippocrates prescribed wormwood-based preparations for digestive complaints and related ailments.

The modern history of absinthe begins much later, around the time of the French Revolution (1789–1799), when many French émigrés fled to nearby regions including Switzerland and Alsace. One of them was Dr Pierre Ordinaire, a retired French physician who settled in Couvet, Switzerland. His connection to the birth of absinthe is widely accepted, although some details remain the subject of legend.

According to the most popular account, Dr Ordinaire began developing a medicinal elixir using plant extracts, with grand wormwood at its core. Seeking to make the bitterness of wormwood more palatable, he used distillation and grape spirit to create a more refined formula. By 1792, he is said to have produced a recipe that combined around fifteen botanicals, including wormwood, star anise, liquorice, fennel, hyssop, parsley, camomile, spinach, and coriander. He named the drink Extrait d’Absinthe, after Artemisia absinthium, the Latin name for wormwood.

When Dr Ordinaire died, the recipe is said to have passed to the Henriod sisters, his housekeepers, along with a sum of money. They began producing small batches of the drink and selling it locally as Dr Ordinaire’s Absinthe, helping to establish the foundations of what would later become one of the most famous spirits in European history.

Above: Val-de-Travers

The Commercialisation of Absinthe

The early success of absinthe soon attracted wider attention. One of the first to recognise its potential was Major Daniel-Henri Dubied, a French expatriate and lace merchant. After tasting the drink, Dubied approached the Henriod sisters with an offer to purchase both their recipe and their business.

However, the true origin of absinthe remains debated. A Swiss account, supported by a 1769 Neuchâtel newspaper advertisement for Bon Extrait d’Absinthe, suggests the Henriod sisters may have been producing the drink even before Dr Pierre Ordinaire arrived in Couvet. Some reports even claim that Ordinaire may have adapted or taken the original recipe.

Ultimately, regardless of its exact origin, the village of Couvet in Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers region is widely recognised as the spiritual birthplace of absinthe.

The Birth of Commercial Absinthe Production

Absinthe’s transformation from a medicinal tonic into a commercial spirit began in the late 18th century.

• Around 1794, Abram-Louis Perrenoud is believed to have started distilling absinthe for beverage use rather than medicinal purposes.
• In 1797, Dubied acquired the recipe either from Perrenoud or the Henriod sisters and partnered with his son-in-law, Henri-Louis Perrenoud, who had learned distillation from his father.
• By 1798, they had established a distillery named Dubied Père et Fils, marking the beginning of organised absinthe production.

The Rise of Pernod and Expansion into France

A key milestone in the history of absinthe came in 1805, when Henri-Louis Perrenoud changed his name to Pernod and founded Pernod Fils in Pontarlier, France.

This move allowed production to expand rapidly while avoiding cross-border taxation. As a result, absinthe became more widely available and began gaining popularity across French society.

At the time, drink options in cafés were relatively limited, often consisting of bitter tonic wines known as quinquinas. Absinthe offered something new both in flavour and experience and quickly gained a loyal following.

Absinthe’s Rise in 19th Century France

Several key factors contributed to absinthe’s rapid growth during the 19th century:

• Military use – French army doctors prescribed absinthe to soldiers during the 1840s Algerian campaigns to help prevent malaria, fever, and dysentery
• Phylloxera crisis (1860s–1880s)  European vineyards were devastated, reducing wine production and increasing demand for alternatives
• Affordability and availability  Absinthe became a widely accessible and inexpensive drink

The Cultural Impact of Absinthe

By the late 19th century, absinthe had become deeply embedded in French culture, particularly in Paris.

It was famously associated with artists and writers such as:

• Vincent van Gogh
• Edgar Degas
• Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
• Pablo Picasso

These figures helped cement absinthe’s reputation as a symbol of creativity and bohemian life, often attributing inspiration to its effects.

As a result, absinthe became more than just a drink it became a cultural phenomenon, setting the stage for both its legendary status and the controversies that would eventually follow.

Prohibition of Absinthe

By the late 19th century, absinthe had reached unprecedented levels of popularity across France and Europe. However, this rapid rise also brought growing concern from governments and society, particularly around excessive consumption similar to modern concerns surrounding binge drinking.

Rising Consumption and Public Concern

At its peak, absinthe production in France was enormous:

• The Pernod Fils distillery alone produced around 20,000 litres per day
• National production reached an estimated 220 million litres annually

As consumption increased, reports began to emerge linking absinthe to a condition known as absinthism, which was believed to cause:

• Addiction
• Hyper-excitability
• Hallucinations

In reality, many of these cases were linked to alcohol abuse, as heavy drinkers consumed large quantities of high-strength spirits.

The Role of Poor-Quality Imitations

A major factor in absinthe’s negative reputation was the rise of inferior and often dangerous imitations.

Some manufacturers added toxic substances to cut costs or enhance appearance, including:

• Copper sulphate (for colouring)
• Antimony compounds (to enhance the louche effect)

As a result, these low-quality products contributed to genuine health concerns, further damaging absinthe’s reputation.

Even respected producers like Pernod Fils publicly warned against such imitations and fought legal battles to protect the integrity of authentic absinthe.

Flawed Science and the Myth of Absinthism

Much of the fear surrounding absinthe was reinforced by flawed scientific research.

One of the most influential figures was Dr Valentin Magnan, who conducted experiments by exposing animals to large doses of pure wormwood oil. The resulting convulsions were presented as evidence of absinthe’s dangers.

However, modern science recognises these experiments as misleading.
Testing pure wormwood oil is comparable to testing coffee by administering extreme doses of pure caffeine far removed from real-world consumption.

Despite this, such studies led to widespread belief that absinthe caused madness, hereditary illness, and long-term psychological damage.

Cultural Panic and Public Perception

Absinthe became a symbol of social decline and was blamed for a range of incidents, including:

• Vincent van Gogh’s ear-cutting episode
• Increasing admissions to mental asylums
• The popular phrase “une correspondance” (a “ticket” to Charenton asylum)

These associations reinforced the growing moral panic surrounding the drink.

The Turning Point: The Lanfray Case

A key moment in absinthe’s prohibition came in 1905 with the case of Jean Lanfray, a Swiss farm labourer who murdered his family.

Although Lanfray had consumed large amounts of wine, brandy, and other alcohol, absinthe was singled out as the primary cause of his actions.

As a result, public outrage intensified, particularly in Switzerland, where calls for prohibition rapidly gained momentum.

Global Bans on Absinthe

Following mounting pressure from:

• The temperance movement
• The wine industry (still recovering from the phylloxera crisis)
• Governments concerned about public health

Absinthe was banned across much of the world:

• 1898 – Republic of Congo
• 1905 – Belgium
• 1907–1910 – Switzerland
• 1910 – Netherlands
• 1912 – United States
• 1914–1915 – France
• 1932 – Italy

In France, the ban was finalised in January 1915, following earlier emergency restrictions during the outbreak of the First World War.

A Misunderstood Spirit

Despite prohibition, absinthe continued to circulate unofficially in some regions.

Importantly, history now shows that absinthe was largely a scapegoat for wider social and alcohol-related issues, rather than the unique cause of the problems attributed to it.

Transition to Revival

Although absinthe was banned for decades, its story did not end there.

👉 The next chapter would see the drink re-evaluated through science, regulation, and historical research leading to what we now recognise as the absinthe revival.

Wormwood & Absinthe

At the heart of every traditional absinthe lies Artemisia absinthium, commonly known as grand wormwood. This key botanical defines both the flavour and identity of absinthe, giving the spirit its characteristic bitterness and complexity.

What is Wormwood?

Wormwood belongs to the Artemisia family, a group of over 180 plant varieties known for their intensely bitter taste. These include:

• Artemisia absinthium (Grand Wormwood)
• Artemisia pontica (Petite Wormwood)
• Artemisia dracunculus (Tarragon)
• Artemisia vulgaris (Mugwort)

Wormwood itself is a perennial shrub native to Europe and Asia, recognised by its greenish-yellow flowers and strong aromatic profile.

Historically, wormwood has been used for medicinal purposes, particularly in treating digestive issues and parasitic infections hence the origin of its name in the Middle Ages.

Thujone and Absinthe: Separating Myth from Reality

One of the most debated aspects of absinthe is its connection to thujone, a naturally occurring compound found in wormwood.

While thujone can be harmful in extremely high doses, it is important to understand the reality:

• Thujone is present in many common plants, including sage, rosemary, lavender, and tarragon
• Traditional distillation methods result in only trace amounts of thujone in absinthe
• Modern absinthe is strictly regulated, ensuring safe consumption levels

In fact, sage often contains higher levels of thujone than wormwood.

Does Absinthe Cause Hallucinations?

Historically, absinthe was blamed for hallucinations, madness, and a range of psychological effects. However, modern scientific understanding has largely disproven these claims.

There is no credible evidence to suggest that absinthe, when consumed responsibly, produces hallucinogenic effects.

Importantly:

• The levels of thujone in absinthe are far too low to cause hallucinations
• Many historical claims were based on flawed research or exaggerated reports
• The effects experienced by drinkers are primarily due to alcohol content, not wormwood

Understanding “Absinthism”

The symptoms once attributed to absinthism including tremors, insomnia, and hallucinations are now recognised as being consistent with alcohol misuse rather than a unique effect of absinthe itself.

At the turn of the 20th century, absinthe became a convenient scapegoat for broader issues such as:

• Alcohol dependency
• Mental illness
• Poor-quality or contaminated spirits
• Other underlying health conditions

The “Secondary Effect”  Fact or Fiction?

Some modern drinkers describe a so-called “secondary effect”, often characterised as a clear-headed or stimulating sensation.

These claims are sometimes attributed to compounds such as:

• Fenchone (from fennel)
• Anethole (from anise)

However, there is no scientific evidence to support the existence of this effect. As a result, it is widely considered to be subjective or psychological rather than chemical.

A Balanced Perspective

Ultimately, absinthe is a high-proof spirit, typically ranging from 55% to 75% ABV. Like any alcoholic beverage, excessive consumption can lead to harmful effects.

When enjoyed responsibly, however, absinthe is no more dangerous than other spirits and remains a carefully crafted drink rooted in tradition.

Wormwood is central to absinthe’s identity, but much of its reputation has been shaped by myth rather than fact.

Today, thanks to scientific understanding and regulation, absinthe is recognised as a safe and authentic spirit—far removed from the misconceptions of the past.

The Salvation of Absinthe

The modern revival of absinthe is closely linked to one individual: George Rowley. His role in restoring absinthe’s legal status and reputation across Europe and beyond has been pivotal in the spirit’s return to global prominence.

From London to Prague

Before becoming a central figure in the absinthe revival, George Rowley began his career as an international claims broker at Lloyd’s of London, specialising in high-risk sectors such as terrorism, natural disasters, and global insurance claims.

In 1992, his work took him to Prague, where he became a consultant covering the Czech and Slovak Republics. It was here that his journey into the drinks industry truly began.

The Start of a Drinks Business

While living in Prague, Rowley developed a strong appreciation for Czech beer culture, which inspired him to launch his first venture:

• Bohemia Beer House Ltd (now trading as BBH Spirits)

The company focused on exporting Czech beers to the UK, allowing Rowley to operate between Prague and his family home in Hertfordshire.

With the support of his local assistant and translator, Radomir, he secured UK distribution rights for well-known Czech brands such as:

• Lobkowicz
• Rebel
• Becherovka (a traditional Czech herbal liqueur)

The Turning Point: Discovery of Absinthe

This early success in importing and distributing Central European drinks laid the foundation for something far more significant.

During his time in Prague, Rowley encountered absinth (the Czech variant of absinthe) a discovery that would ultimately lead to the revival of the entire category.

At the time, absinthe was widely believed to be illegal across much of Europe and had largely disappeared from the mainstream market. However, Rowley recognised both its historical significance and its untapped potential.

Restoring Absinthe to the Modern World

Driven by a commitment to authenticity and historical accuracy, Rowley set out to:

• Establish the legal status of absinthe within EU regulations
• Reintroduce absinthe to the UK and international markets
• Restore traditional distillation methods

This work culminated in the creation of La Fée Absinthe Parisienne, which in 2000 became:

👉 The first traditional grand wormwood absinthe distilled in France since the 1915 ban

A Defining Role in the Absinthe Revival

Rowley’s efforts extended far beyond product development. His work helped:

• Set legal precedents for absinthe across the European Union
• Challenge long-standing myths surrounding wormwood and thujone
• Re-establish absinthe as a legitimate and respected spirit

👉 This marked a turning point in what is now recognised as the modern absinthe revival

The return of absinthe was not accidental it was the result of determination, research, and a commitment to authenticity.

Through the work of pioneers like George Rowley, absinthe has been transformed from a banned and misunderstood drink into a globally recognised spirit with deep historical roots.

Reintroducing Absinthe to the UK

Anyone who has met George Rowley will recognise his attention to detail and commitment to doing things properly. This approach would prove crucial in laying the groundwork for absinthe’s return to the UK and, ultimately, the wider global market.

Building a Distribution Network

After returning to Hertfordshire, Rowley set out to build a drinks distribution business from scratch. One of his earliest and most important decisions was to involve his local Trading Standards Officer, Paul Passi, ensuring full compliance with UK and EU regulations from the outset.

In 1996, his first shipment a fourteen-wheel truckload of Czech beer arrived at Bayford Hall. The delivery caused quite a stir in the quiet village, not least due to the size of the vehicle and its non-English-speaking drivers.

To meet European labelling requirements, Rowley personally opened every case and applied compliant back labels to each bottle by hand an early example of the meticulous approach that would later define his work in the absinthe category.

Early Industry Connections

By 1997, Rowley was supplying Czech beers to high-end London bars and had begun building relationships within the drinks industry. Around this time, he was introduced to Becherovka, a traditional Czech herbal liqueur, further expanding his portfolio.

Shortly after, in 1998, he encountered something far more significant—Hill’s Absinth (without the “e”), a Czech-style absinth available in a handful of Prague bars.

The Discovery of Absinth

Recognising its potential, Rowley pursued import rights for Hill’s Absinth. During this process, he discovered that a small quantity was already being brought into the UK by John Moore, a musician associated with Black Box Recorder and The Jesus and Mary Chain.

Moore had first encountered absinth while touring in Prague and had written about it in The Idler magazine. Alongside Gavin Pretor-Pinney and Tom Hodgkinson, he had begun exploring the idea of commercialising the product on a larger scale.

Green Bohemia and the Legal Challenge

In 1998, Rowley joined forces with Moore and his partners to form Green Bohemia Ltd. The roles were clearly defined:

• Public relations  handled by Moore and partners
• Legal framework, logistics, design, and finance managed by Rowley

The immediate priority was clear:

👉 establish whether absinth could be legally imported and sold in the UK

This required working closely with Trading Standards and interpreting existing EU regulations an area where little clarity existed at the time.

Challenging the “Illegal” Myth

During this process, Rowley uncovered a critical insight:

👉 Absinthe had not been explicitly banned in all jurisdictions—it was often simply assumed to be illegal, particularly in France, where the issue had effectively been ignored rather than clearly defined in law.

This discovery became a turning point, forming the foundation for the legal and commercial reintroduction of absinthe.

Through careful planning, regulatory understanding, and strategic partnerships, George Rowley helped establish the legal pathway that would allow absinthe to return to the UK market.

This work would go on to play a key role in the wider absinthe revival, ultimately restoring the spirit to its rightful place in global drinking culture.

Reintroduction of Absinthe to the UK

Although absinthe had been banned across much of Europe and North America, it was never formally prohibited in the United Kingdom. However, due to the French ban and the disruption of the First World War, supplies to the UK disappeared and the drink gradually faded from public awareness.

For many years, absinthe remained largely forgotten, known only to a small circle of writers, artists, and cosmopolitan drinkers frequenting establishments such as London’s Savoy American Bar. In contrast, spirits like gin dominated the British market.

Establishing the Legal Framework

The modern return of absinthe to the UK began with detailed legal research.

George Rowley undertook a thorough review of European Union regulations governing spirits, working closely with Trading Standards Officer Paul Passi. Central to this effort was EU Council Directive 88/388/EEC, which addressed the presence of thujone in food and drink.

Through this work, Rowley helped secure:

👉 The first government-recognised legal document confirming the legitimacy of absinthe under EU law

This was a defining moment. It established a legal precedent that would later support the reintroduction of absinthe not only in the UK, but across Europe and eventually in international markets, including the United States.

Securing the First Import Agreement

With legal clarity established, the next step was to secure a commercial supply.

George Rowley, alongside John Moore and their translator Radomir, travelled to the Czech Republic to negotiate directly with the producers of Hill’s Absinth. The distillery, led by Radomil Hill, became central to the early stages of absinthe’s return.

Negotiations followed local custom, with each agreed term marked by a celebratory toast.

A Defining Moment: November 1998

The contract signing itself became something of a race against time.

• The agreement required official notarisation
• The local notary’s office was due to close at 6pm
• The team left the distillery just minutes before closing

Despite torrential rain, difficult road conditions, and a tight deadline, the group arrived in time.

👉 On 9th November 1998, the contract was signed—marking the first legal shipment of absinth to the UK since the early 20th-century bans.

This moment represented far more than a simple import agreement. It marked the beginning of absinthe’s return to the UK market and laid the foundation for its wider global revival.

👉 It was a crucial step in what would become the modern absinthe revival

Back in Prague and in celebratory mood, John and George found themselves sat in the lounge at the back of Café FX, above Wenceslas Square, when they witnessed their first ever absinth burning where a sugar cube dosed in absinthe is ignited so the sugar used to sweeten the drink is caramelised. They immediately knew that this dramatic serving method was the way to launch absinth in the UK. Although this “modern” method of serving absinth was wholly unauthentic, it was this ritual that was to capture the public’s interest in their product. The introduction of the “Sugar and Burn” ritual is something which will haunt George for decades to come as well meaning aficionados see absinth burning as sacrilege. And so does George. It is only Czech style absinth without the “e” which he has ever promoted this way and had I been in his shoes, I’d have done the same thing. Like the innovative slice of lime in the neck of a bottle of Sol made it the beer of choice in the Eighties, the burning ritual drove early sales of absinth.
Without this ritual the absinth(e) craze may never have started and the Green Fairy forgotten for another century. Anyway drinking is meant to be fun and even grown men, despite their mum’s protestations, like playing with matches. It is likely that this Czech method of serving absinth was adapted from the Café Brûlot as this traditional coffee drink calls for a sugar cube soaked with brandy to be ignited.

Less than a month after the supply contract was signed, I was one of the lucky few invited to the launch party of Hill’s Absinth at one of the upstairs rooms in London’s Groucho Club. Journalists from the Daily Telegraph and Evening Standard were amongst the guests but unusually for hacks there was something of a reluctance to try this “dangerous” Green Fairy. They were the heady days before “responsible drinking” so Dick Bradsell and I helpfully led the way, each demonstrating a series of head shots. The consequences proved painful and I had to avoid hot drinks for days as the neat high-proof spirit took its toll on my insides.

During the launch party I remember speaking to George, convinced he was onto a smash hit, only to find he had no distribution in place. Next morning with my first absinth-induced hangover I rung John Coe of Coe Vintners who ended up taking the bulk of the first shipment and becoming the first UK distributor.
The Daily Telegraph published its front page exclusive which caught the attention of
Jeremy Paxman of BBC2’s Newsnight as he reviewed the next day’s papers at the end of the programme. The following morning George received a call from the BBC asking if he could demonstrate the absinth-burning ritual for Newsnight that evening.
Due to the spirits high strength and the image the burning ritual might have portrayed,
ever conscientious, George set upon a program to limit release to carefully selected bars who had received appropriate staff training. Despite this the reaction was predictable and the reopening of the absinthe market was questioned in The House of Lords. Many County Councils mistakenly pulled the product from bars only to find themselves being presented with copies of the original EU certificate which vouched for
its legality.
When George launched Hill’s Absinth in the UK in 1998 he knew little about it and nor
did practically anyone else. He became aware that Hill’s Absinth may not have been entirely authentic. Hill’s claim that Albin Hill established himself as a wine wholesaler in
1920 and soon after started making his own liqueurs and spirits. In 1947, his son Radomil opened his distillery they maintain that this is when he started making absinth. The next year he was abruptly put out of business by the communist regime seizing his distillery and taking over production of his vodka and other spirits. He reclaimed the distillery after the Velvet Revolution of 1990 and started producing Hill’s Absinth.
There is a scant evidence to show that Radomil was making absinth prior to 1990 and
it appears he made Hill’s absinth by simply mixing essential oils with alcohol rather that
the distilling method used to make traditional French absinthe. Whatever the authenticity of Hill’s, Radomil’s production of his absinth, the young trend setters of Prague adapting the Café Brûlot sugar burn serve and George’s subsequent discovery of it were all key steps in the eventual rediscovery and legalisation of authentic French version.
All George’s slow measured strategy achieved was to create an unfulfilled demand which was quickly exploited by imitators. Within 18 months of the Groucho Club launch, the UK market was awash with crude, highalcohol, garishly-coloured, me-too products from the Czech Republic, Spain, Italy Poland and Hungary. George realised he had to act fast to save his business and the reputation of absinthe, so in 1999 he embarked on campaign to source genuine pre-ban absinthe, ideally by restarting production in France or Switzerland.

George believed he had established a legal precedent. If a product could be legally sold in one EU member state, it could, in theory, be sold in all of them, unless a state had specifically addressed the issue in the Maastricht Treaty. Fortunately for absinthe lovers around the world, he was right and France had overlooked the ban and no provision for it was made in the Maastricht Treaty.

Whilst unpicking the terms of the 1915 ban, George discovered that the French had only prohibited the selling of absinthe in France, and not the distillation of it. His next move was obvious, to find a distillery which had direct links prior to 1915 and commission it to once again make a traditional drink, purely for export. George sort to create a “real absinthe” with impeccable provenance, faithful to an original recipe and distillation methods. His research took him to Auvers-sur-Oise, a small town some eighteen miles north-west of Paris and The French Absinthe Museum, the world’s biggest archive. There he met with its owner and curator, Madame Delahaye who gave him a distinctly cool welcome as she recognised him from the press and did not approve of the Sugar and Burn ritual he had chosen for his electric-blue “so-called absinthe”. However, George was able to persuade Madame Delahaye that his intentions were honourable and she consented to the use of her archives and personal wealth of knowledge to assist with the recipe and project.
The brand name of La Fée was chosen, inspired by the “green fairy” which was known in turn-of-the-century Paris. The now iconic eye illustration was commissioned as the brand’s motif. La Fée was to become the first traditional French absinthe to be commercially produced in France since the ban of 1915.
A Parisian pastis distillery that had an original working copper still was co-opted to work with Madame Delayahe on the project. Test distillations began with the results scored according to taste, (both neat and with water), aroma and louche. Herbs were sourced, and the first order for 7,000 bottles was placed on 5th June 2000. The confirmation fax sent by the distillery read: We are pleased to confirm that we have been authorised by the French government office to produce absinthe La Fée for export market only.
In March 2003 George overcame the French sales ban by changing the name of La Fée Absinthe made for the French market to La Fée Aux Plantes d’Absinthe. Crucially it no longer proclaimed to be an absinthe but made from the plant of the same name – enough of a difference to make it acceptable to French customs, who had previously sat on the product for around six months before releasing it for sale.

George was also directly involved in lifting of the ban imposed in Italy following the referendum of 1932. Working with Vellier, a local distributor based inGenoa, it became clear that when Italy joined the EU and signed the Maastricht Treaty, it had, like France, failed to register its Absinthe ban, effectively rendering it null and void.
One of the few things to celebrate about EU bureaucracy?

Australia, too, had a ban in place, but entering the Australian market turned out to be simplicity itself. Australia and New Zealand share a great deal of common ground, and the decision was taken by both to harmonise their trading standards legislation with that of Europe. Overnight, they adopted the permitted European level of 10 parts per million on Thujone thereby unlocking two new territories courtesy of EU Council Directive No 88/388/EEC.
The Sugar and Burn ritual, the Hill’s absinth’s vibrant colour and softer, low-anis finish were a hit with trade and consumer alike. However, it was a marketing phenomenon
based on inaccuracies and George being George, set out to correct the imbalance between the integrity of the two styles of absinth(e) he was selling and to create an equally authentic La Fée Czech absinthe. The air-conditioned vaults of Schimmel Library, Europe’s oldest and most authoritative collection of works on herbalism, proved invaluable. Already aware of recipes, sent from the library to Bohemia in the 1890s, he was now able to track down the French base recipe which would constitute the base of his second brand, La Fée Absinth Bohemian.
Thus far the US legislation ban in 1912 had proved impenetrable. Unlike the European bans which merely prohibited the sale of Absinthe, U.S.21CFR172.510 directly prohibited the inclusion of artemisia absinthium unless the final product was thujone-free as determined by official analytical testing. At the end of 2006 this obstacle was suddenly removed as the US followed Australia and New Zealand fell in with EU directive 88/388/EEC (the same document George had used in June 1998) on permitted levels of thujone. In harmony with Europe, the USA lifted the ban on thujone, and decreed a content of 10ppm to be legally acceptable. Sadly for George, this was to be the one market where others beat him in the race to gain legal approval. On 5-March-2007 the French brand Lucid was the first genuine absinthe to obtain a COLA (Certificate of Label Approval) from the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Bureau). This was soon followed by the Swiss brand Kübler with La Fée eventually launching in New York in July 2008.

French Absinthe, 68% alc./vol. (136°proof) www.lafeeabsinthe.com
Launched in 2000, this was the first traditional absinthe to be commercially
produced in France since it was banned in 1914-15. A mark of La Fée’s authenticity
is its endorsement by Marie-Claude Delahaye, founder and curator of the
Absinthe Museum in Auvers-sur-Oise, France.

La Fée Parisienne is distilled by a Paris-based distiller using copper stills in the classic way with its flavour centred around grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) and balanced with petti wormwood, green and star anis. These serve to subdue the weight and extreme bitterness of the wormwood and this balance of flavours is typical of a traditional pre ban French version, as is its 68% abv. Other herbs are used to delicately rain in the dominant wormwood including hyssop and in La Fée’s case an expensive herb found high-up in the Swiss Alps which Madame Delayahe insisted upon and I am told is often missed by many lesser products. Its identity remains under wraps.
In order to ensure a consistent year round product and prevent colour variations between batches, La Fée stabilise their signature green hue with the addition of a small amount of colouring to bolster the naturally occurring chlorophyll. Without this, if it was exposed to light, the chlorophyll would break down, changing the colour from emerald green to yellow green and then brown.

Taste: Cloudy pale green louche when water is added. Clean, fresh and rounded
aniseed flavours and well-balanced liquorice, mint, lemon, angelica, and rootier
notes. 4.5/5

French absinthe, 68% alc./vol. (136°proof) www.lafeexs.com

This a premium example of a wine based French absinthe from Pontarlier. The
distiller of La Fée XS Francaise uses his great grand-fathers recipes and distillation
methods to make a truly authentic drink.
The ingredients are split in two different herbal parts and those are macerated in the wine based alcohol and distilled separetly. The resulting distillates are blended and then redistilled. Lastly a herbal sack is macerated in the distillate to add the natural hue and final balance of flavour. It is rested in large oak barrels prior to bottling.
It is classified as an amer, meaning a higher level of wormwood than is usual is used in its production. Due to being coloured soft yellow-green by chlorophyll without additional artificial colouring this absinthe is packaged in a brown bottle to protect its contents from the detrimental effects of ultraviolet light.
It is recommended to dilute La Fée XS Francaise with 4 to 6 parts water, according to taste.
Taste: Pale milky green louche when water is added. Initial strong anise flavour is
quickly joined by bitter wormwood and spice notes. 5/5

Swiss absinthe, 53 alc./vol. (106°proof) www.lafeexs.com

This is a high-end absinthe batch distilled in small quantities in absinthe’s
birthplace, Couvet, Val-de-Travers, Switzerland. It is a clear “La Bleue”
absinthe which should be served diluted with 3 to 4 parts iced water without the
addition of sugar.
The botanicals are weighed and macerated in wine alcohol over night (with a high ingredient ratio to spirit). To help ensure consistency a proportion of previous distillation is added. More wine alcohol is added in the morning to reduce the ratio of botanicals to alcohol and the distillation started with the still by direct flame. Only 120 bottles are produced during each distillation and the clear distillate is cut to 53% with demineralised mountain water.
La Fée X•S Suisse contains a noticeably higher level of fennel which is permitted under Swiss regulations but not allowed in French absinthes. The apparent sweetness comes from a particular flower used, no sugar is added.
Taste: Louches milky white when water is added. Simple soft anis and herbal notes
and a higher fennel content than its French counterpart. 5/5

Czech absinth, 70% alc./vol. (140°proof) www.lafeeabsinthe.com

This La Fée Bohemian absinth has a blue tinge to its aquamarine green colour.
It is distilled south of Prague, in the heart of Bohemia.
Taste: Does not turn cloudy when water is added (as is usual for a Czech absinth).
A very subtle aniseed flavour compared to its French counterpart. Its bold palate has spicy notes and subtle undertones of chamomile, fennel and mint. Reminiscent of Night Nurse medicine, but in a nice way. 4/5